The Coachella Valley Desert is truly a playground, and what follows is but a sampling of the opportunities to enjoy its abundant sunshine. But the strong sun and dry air that are so appealing can also sneak up on you in the form of sunburn and heat exhaustion. Especially during the summer, but even in milder times, always carry and drink plenty of water.
Ballooning -- This is perhaps the most memorable way to see the desert: floating above the landscape in a colorful hot-air balloon. Choose from specialty themes like sunrise, sunset, or romantic champagne flights. Rides are offered by Dream Flights (tel. 800/933-5628 or 760/321-5154; www.dreamflights.com), and Fantasy Balloon Flights (tel. 800/GO-ABOVE or 760/568-0997; www.fantasyballoonflights.com). Rates range from $145 to $150 per person for a 60- to 90-minute flight, including champagne and hors d'oeuvres.
Bicycling -- The clean, dry air just cries out to be enjoyed -- what could be better than to pedal your way around town or into the desert? Adventure Bike Tours (tel. 760/328-0282) will outfit you with a bike, helmet, water bottle, and certified guide. Three-hour tours, which meet at local hotels, start at about $50, and bike rentals are $10 per hour or $30 for the day. If you're just looking to rent some wheels and a helmet, Tri a Bike Rental, 44841 San Pablo Ave., Palm Desert (tel. 760/340-2840), rents road and mountain bikes for the hour ($7-$9), the day ($14-$19), or the week ($70-$95), and offers children's and tandem models. The Bighorn Bicycle Rental & Tour Company, 302 N. Palm Canyon (tel. 760/325-3367), has hourly ($7) and daily ($27) rental rates in addition to guided bike treks (a 4-hr. guided ride/hike is $45 per person including all equipment and snacks).
A Family Water Park -- Knott's Soak City, off I-10 south on Gene Autry Trail between Ramon Road and East Palm Canyon Drive (tel. 760/327-0499; www.soakcityusa.com), is a 16-acre water playground with 12 water slides, body- and board surfing, a wave pool, and more. Dressing rooms, lockers, and private beach cabanas (with food service) are available. Admission is $23 for adults, $17 for kids 3 to 11, and free for kids under 3; rates are discounted after 3pm. The park is open daily mid-March through August, and weekends through October, from 10am to 5pm (later on weekends).
Guided Jeep & Wagon Excursions -- Desert Adventures (tel. 888/440-JEEP or 760/324-JEEP; www.red-jeep.com) offers four-wheel-drive eco-tours led by naturalist guides. Your off-road adventure may take you to a replica of an ancient Cahuilla village, the Santa Rosa Mountain roads overlooking the Coachella Valley, or picturesque ravines on the way to the San Andreas Fault. Tours range in duration from 2 to 4 hours and in price from $59 to $99. Advance reservations are required. The company's trademark red Jeeps depart from the Desert Adventures Ranch on South Palm Canyon near the entrance to the Indian Canyons, but most of the longer excursions include hotel pickup and return.
Covered Wagon Tours (tel. 800/367-2161 or 760/347-2161; www.coveredwagontours.com) embraces the pioneer spirit with a 2-hour ride through the Coachella Valley Nature Preserve followed by a good old-fashioned barbecue and live country music. The tours take place 7 days a week from mid-September to mid-June; the cost is $60 for adults, $30 for children ages 7 to 16, and free for kids under 7. Without the "grub," the charge is $36 per adult and $18 per child. Advance reservations are required.
Hiking -- The most popular spot for hiking is the nearby Indian Canyons, at the end of South Palm Canyon Dr. (tel. 800/790-3398 or 760/325-3400; www.aguacaliente.org). The Agua Caliente tribe made their home here centuries ago, and remnants of their lifestyle can be seen among the streams, waterfalls, and palm groves in Andreas, Murray, and Palm canyons. Striking rock formations and herds of bighorn sheep and wild ponies will probably be more appealing than the "Trading Post" in Palm Canyon, but it does sell detailed trail maps. This is Indian land, and the Tribal Council charges admission of $6 per adult, $4.50 for students, seniors and military, $2 for kids age 6-12. The canyons are closed to visitors from late June to early September. The canyons are open 8am to 5pm, and guided hiking tours and ranger lectures are also available.
Don't miss the opportunity to explore Tahquitz Canyon, 500 W. Mesquite, west of Palm Canyon Dr., also an Agua Caliente territory. This scenic canyon, which features the waterfall filmed for the classic Lost Horizon, was closed to the public for nearly 30 years after it became an all-night party zone for hippies, who vandalized land considered sacred -- serious injuries also plagued careless canyon squatters. But now the vegetation is renewed and decades' worth of dumping cleaned up, and in 2001 the tribe began offering 2-1/2 hour ranger-led hikes into their most spiritual and beautiful place. The two-mile round-trip hike is of moderate difficulty and hikes depart daily at 8am, 10am, 12noon and 2pm. The fee is $13 for adults, $6 for children age 6-12; call tel. 800/790-3398 for recorded information, 760/416-7044 for reservations (recommended).
Ten miles east of Palm Springs is the 13,000-acre Coachella Valley Preserve (tel. 760/343-1234), which is open daily from sunrise to sunset. There are springs, mesas, both hiking and riding trails, the Thousand Palms Oasis, a visitor center, and picnic areas.
If you're heading up to Joshua Tree National Park (see later in this chapter), consider stopping at the Big Morongo Canyon Preserve (tel. 760/363-7190), which was once an Indian village and later a cattle ranch. It's open to visitors Wednesday through Sunday from 7:30am to sundown. The park's high water table makes it a magnet for birds and other wildlife; the lush springs and streams are an unexpected desert treat.
Horseback Riding -- Equestrians from novice to advanced can experience the solitude and quiet of the desert on horseback at Smoke Tree Stables (tel. 760/327-1372). Located south of downtown and ideal for exploring the nearby Indian Canyon trails, Smoke Tree offers guided rides for $25 per hour. But don't expect your posse leader to be primed with facts on the nature you'll encounter -- this is strictly a do-it-yourself experience.
Tennis -- Virtually all the larger hotels and resorts have tennis courts; but if you're staying at a B&B, you might want to play at the Tennis Center, 2500 Whitewater Club Dr., Palm Springs (tel. 760/323-2626), which has nine courts and offers day and evening clinics for adults, juniors, and seniors, as well as ball machines for solo practice. USPTA pros are on hand.
If you'd like to play for free, the night-lit courts at Palm Springs High School, 2248 E. Ramon Rd., are open to the public on weekends, holidays, and in summer. There are also eight free night-lit courts in beautiful Ruth Hardy Park at Tamarisk and Caballero streets.
Here's the Rub: Two Bunch Palms Desert Spa--Since the time of the Native American Cahuilla, who knew how great it felt to soak in the Coachella Valley's natural hot springs, this desert has drawn stressed-out masses seeking relaxation, rejuvenation, and the sigh-inducing pleasure only a health spa can deliver. My number-one, I-can't-recommend-it-enough choice is heavenly Two Bunch Palms. Posh yet intimate, this spiritual sanctuary in Desert Hot Springs (about 20 min. north of Palm Springs) has been drawing weary city dwellers since Chicago mobster Al Capone hid out here in the 1930s. Two Bunch Palms later became a playground for the movie community, but today it's a friendly and informal haven offering renowned spa services, bungalows on lush grounds, and lagoons of steaming mineral water. Service is famously -- and excellently -- discreet; and legions of return guests will attest that the outstanding spa treatments (nine varieties of massage, mud baths, body wraps, facials, salt rubs, and more) and therapeutic waters are what make the luxury of Two Bunch Palms irresistible. Room rates start at $175 (including breakfast) in the high season, with midweek and substantial off-season discounts available. Spa treatments typically cost between $75 to $100 per hour, and money-saving room/meal/spa packages are offered. Don't want to stay over? Then book one of Two Bunch's 6-hour Day Spa packages. The resort is off Palm Drive (Gene Autry Trail) at 67-425 Two Bunch Palms Trail (tel. 800/472-4334 or 760/329-8791; www.twobunchpalms.com).
